首爾印象
作者:lisky 日期:2010-07-31
首爾印象
2010.7.31 李宗薇
七月中,帶本校研習團至姊妹校韓國首爾教育大學研習十天。研習團有28名學生、兩位帶隊老師,共30人。出發當天在校搭遊覽車赴機場前,教務長前來送行,說:「此趟帶小朋友出門,要辛苦了。」
本校學生都是成人,談不上辛苦;但帶隊老師職責在身,如宿舍門禁前仍有同學未歸、錢包被偷等,擔心是少不了的。
第一次去韓國約十八、九年前,那年得了ASPAC獎學金,去日韓兩國參訪三週。在漢城一週中,白天是官方參訪活動,包括學術單位如KEDI、首爾大學、教科書編輯小組、教師訓練單位,以及教育電視製播單位等;晚上及週末則是自由時間。我住的旅館在美國大使館附近,交通方便,卻沒料著抵達次日就碰上民眾在美國大使館前的抗議活動(理由忘記了),到離開前警方的拒馬、鐵絲網、欄杆等都沒撤離,因交通管制,進出旅館都得繞道。看了這樣一連幾天的警民抗爭,對峙雙方都兵困馬疲,甚或在路旁和衣而睡,但仍繼續僵持,見識到了韓國人堅毅甚或飆悍的民族性。雖然出入得繞路,還是抽空逛了奧林匹克運動館、景福門等處古蹟,還參加「板門店一日遊」 (基金會人員先幫忙預報)。
年輕的朋友或許對板門店陌生,但我們這世代的看到板門店自然會想起韓戰、北緯38度線、一萬四千個證人、鴨綠江、麥克阿瑟將軍等。板門店是1953年7月27日聯合國部隊( 主要為美軍)、中共軍隊、北韓軍隊等代表簽訂停戰協議的地方,協議中列出板門店周遭800公尺內為聯合國軍隊和北韓的共同警備地區 (JSA, Joint Security Area),前幾年好像還有JSA為名稱的韓國電影。
那回最想去看胡金銓導演「空山靈雨」、「山中傳奇」兩部影片的拍攝地。請教韓國朋友,推估拍攝地點應是慶州,可惜距離漢城太遠。台灣派駐基金會的代表建議如要逛街、購物,可到東大門、明洞等處。我週末早上八點前搭地鐵抵達東大門,市場人聲鼎沸、萬頭鑽動,除了商店熙熙攘攘,路邊、路中心都有一波波的攤販吆喝叫賣,擠得寸步難行。我停留不到十分鐘要抽身離開,沒想到走出街道也花了十幾分鐘才擠出來。倒是逛明洞時發現一家文具店,商品頗有設計感、價格便宜(相對於日貨),在裡頭逛了一個多小時,買了不少小本子、鉛筆、貼紙等,回來給讀小學的兒女。有天女兒回家問我還有沒有?因她說同學很喜歡,她不夠送人。後來台灣開了「德德小集」有賣該品牌morning glory 的產品。
代表將熱鬧的「明洞」比喻為西門町,但那時明洞是一般性的商店,現在幾乎三步一「化妝品專賣店」,當然彼時台灣沒引進韓劇,也沒有「韓流」。
此行除了首爾教大安排的韓文、跆拳、美術課及古蹟、博物館等參觀,自由活動時間去明洞看了亂打秀(NANTA),還有多處景點。抵韓第二天傍晚去了趟南山,一路上坡走到首爾塔,在塔上俯瞰首爾夜景。至於清溪川及漢江,兩處整治工程令人一新耳目,水聲潺潺水流清澈,還規劃了完整的休憩地,夜晚的漢江有燈光與音樂配合的水舞,令人駐足不捨離去。回台前兩晚,從首爾教大走到首爾藝術中心,可惜想看的攝影展及畫展均已過了參觀時間。此行沒去百貨公司,抽空去了趟東大門,舊地重遊,人潮依然洶湧,但景物今昔大不同,僅東大門古蹟仍在,但原來的矮屋均已不見,代之而起的是兩幢新起的摩天大樓。
在首爾的中央博物館參觀時,導覽崔小姐提到韓國很多出土的文物來自慶州。查了資料,韓國的「慶州史跡區」列名聯合國教科文組織(UNESCO)「世界文化遺產」,有五個區域,範圍比日本的京都、奈良還大,可惜此次與慶州仍是緣慳一面。
不知誰說的,旅途中留些想作而沒作的,這樣,有理由下回再來。我的慶州之旅或許留待下次吧!
[本日誌由 lisky 於 2014-04-11 09:42 AM 編輯]
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